How to Test Fabric Sewability in Apparel Industry

By | March 27, 2016

How to Test Fabric Sewability in Apparel Industry

Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: [email protected]

 

Introduction:

Before manufacturing any garment product in readymade garment industry, fabric should be tested whether it is perfect or not for sewing. In fabric sewability assessment method, some tests should be followed which are mentioned in this article.

Fabric sewability assessment process

Fabric sewability assessment process

Fabric Sewability Assessment Method Followed in Garment Industry:

To assess the sewability of fabric, it is necessary to do the following tests:

  1. Seam strength,
  2. Seam puckering,
  3. Seam slippage,
  4. Resistance to fraying,
  5. Lubricant content.

All the above tests have explained in the below:

1. Seam strength:

The proposed end use and properties of the fabric are considered when sewing thread type, stitch type and sewing conditions are determined. The seam strength test is done to ensure that the necessary values for sewability have been achieved.

2. Seam puckering:

Sample fabric is sewn in both warp and weft directions as per pre-selected sewing conditions. Seam puckering due to the structural jamming is observed and recorded. Densely woven fabrics frequently contribute to this type of defect. it is so important to test the sewability of fabric.

3. Seam slippage:

Seam slippage of specimen seams sewn in both warp and weft directions are evaluated as per standard test method for fabric sewability, so that the slippage does not exceed 5mm.

4. Resistance to fraying:

The sample fabric is subjected to a domestic wash cycle. After that, fabric fraying from the edge in both warp and weft direction is measured to ensure that fraying does not exceed 3mm.

5. Lubricant content:

The percentage of lubricant present in a fabric is determined by treating the fabric with a suitable solvent. To facilitate trouble free sewing, lubricant content in a fabric should be between 0.5 to 1% depending on fabric type, construction and lubricant type etc. if the lubricant content in a fabric is too low than the required amount, then fabric damaged by needle or frictional heat in needle would obviously result. It is also very important test for fabric sewability assessment.

Fabrics passing all the above mentioned tests for fabric sewability assessment are assumed to be suitable for making-up. Failure in any of the mentioned test, attention should be drawn to the fabric manufacturer, so that they could take corrective measures before marketing their products.

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