Study on Seam Abrasion Resistance
S M Hossen Uzzal
Planning Executive at Modele De Capital Ind. Ltd.
Narayanganj, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Seam Abrasion Resistance:
It is easy to determine the resistance to abrasion of a sewing thread but the abrasion resistance of that sewing thread does not behave similarly when stitches into a seam. The reasons behind it is that some factors e.g. stitch type, seam type, sewing conditions, fabric types, thread types etc. alters the sewing thread abrasion behavior.
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To determine the seam abrasion resistance, a seam abrasion machine (SAM) has been developed by J & P COAT’s research laboratory. In this machine a multi-directional abrasion action operates along the edge of the seam. The test result is expressed as number of rubs to first stitch failure. This article has shown some key factors which are directly affected on seam abrasion resistance.
Factors Affecting on Seam Abrasion Resistance:
Abrasion resistance of a seam varies depending on some factors which are pointed out in the below:
All the above four factors have explained in the following:
1. Type of threads:
It has been clearly established that synthetic threads are far superior to the natural threads in terms of abrasion resistance but it is not clear whether these results would also apply in case of seams.
2. Stitch balance:
Normally in a two thread chain stitch seam (type-401), the ratio of the needle thread to looper threads is 1:1.7. If this ratio is reduced by increasing the length of feed of the needle then the abrasion resistance of the chain side is improved. But if the needle thread length increases more than the looper thread then the abrasion resistance performance falls rapidly.
3. Seam tightness:
In the case of tight seams, resistance to abrasion is higher than the loose seams. The fabrics which are pucker prone are frequently stitched under very light tensions although sometimes seam grim is unavoidable. Higher the seam grim the less will be the seam abrasion resistance.
4. Fabric type:
Hence, for garments likely to be exposed to abrasive elements during wear it is important to check stitch balance, seam and stitch type, fabric type, sewing thread type, seam tightness, seam grim aspect etc. To obtain a satisfactory seam abrasion resistance before going to full scale garments production.